El Salvador

From Turbulence to Tranquility

Once notorious for its gang violence, El Salvador has undergone a remarkable transformation, emerging as one of the safest countries we've ever visited. Under President Nayib Bukele's administration, aggressive anti-gang initiatives have led to a significant reduction in crime rates. While these measures have faced criticism over human rights concerns, the palpable sense of security and optimism among locals is undeniable. Our journey through this resilient nation offered firsthand insight into its evolving landscape and vibrant culture.

El Tunco: Surf's Up and Sunsets

Our journey through El Salvador began on a surprisingly pleasant note as we traveled from El Paredón to El Tunco. This touristy spot is known for its seafood joints and a main square that feels like a slice of a European city center. After indulging in local cuisine, it was comforting to enjoy some familiar flavors from home.

Savoring the Pupusa: A Cheesy Delight

Of course, we couldn't miss out on trying El Salvador's national dish, the pupusa. These thick corn tortillas stuffed with cheesy goodness were absolutely delicious! Just a heads-up: let them cool a bit before diving in, unless you fancy a tongue-scorching experience.

Beyond the Waves: Exploring El Tunco

El Tunco is a surfer's paradise, but if you're not into riding waves, the choppy waters might not be ideal for a leisurely swim. Honestly, after a couple of days, we felt we'd seen and done it all.

Sunset Dining: Seafood with a View

One evening, we enjoyed a fantastic meal at a seafood restaurant while watching the sunset. I savored a perfectly grilled white fish, crispy on the outside, while my partner relished a flavorful seafood risotto. Both dishes were spot-on.

Santa Ana: More Than Just a Volcano

Next, we headed to Santa Ana, primarily as a base for hiking the Santa Ana volcano. However, due to a leg injury I picked up in Greece, we decided to take it easy and explore the town instead. We stumbled upon Pollo Campestre, a local chicken spot that blew us away. The service was friendly, the chicken was seasoned to perfection, and the portions were generous. I'd return to El Salvador just for that chicken!

New Year's Day: Soaking in Tradition

On New Year's Day, seeking something to do after a quiet New Year's Eve, we ventured to a natural hot spa. We took a "chicken bus" to a nearby town, sharing the ride with numerous soldiers who hopped on and off along the way. Upon arrival, we were surprised to find the spa bustling with locals. Turns out, in El Salvador, New Year's Eve is typically spent at home, while New Year's Day is for outings to beaches, pools, or spas.

A Muddy Misunderstanding: Spa Adventures

We decided to treat ourselves to what we thought was a jacuzzi session, paying $90 for both of us. Due to a mix-up, it turned out to be a mud treatment followed by time in a naturally heated sauna. Despite the misunderstanding, it was a unique experience. Throughout our visit, the noticeable military presence was reassuring; the soldiers were friendly and contributed to a strong sense of safety.

San Salvador: History Comes Alive

Leaving Santa Ana, we took an affordable taxi to San Salvador, which became the highlight of our trip. As a history and politics enthusiast, I was eager to delve into the country's past. We joined a tour that offered deep insights into El Salvador's rich history, from resisting Mexican empire invasions with Guatemalan support to distancing from U.S. policies. We learned about efforts to clean up the streets and the president's controversial strategies that transformed a once crime-ridden capital into a safer city. I gained immense respect for the locals and their resilience.

A Fresh Look: Barbering in the Capital

Before leaving, I decided to get a haircut. The barber transformed my overgrown mop into a sharp look, all for just $10. We tipped an extra $10 to show our appreciation for his meticulous work. He also shared tips on local spots to visit and things to see.

Final Thoughts: El Salvador's Lasting Impression

In summary, El Salvador left a lasting impression on us. The pupusas were mouthwatering, the culture rich and vibrant, and the nation's turnaround story is truly inspiring.